On The Road (Part Duex) ~Carol Whack On Motion Call it an obsession over that which I can’t really find, or the only way I can really find it. Whatever it is, doing it, is for me life’s pinnacle. To always be in Motion. And slow motion at that. It is through this mode of travel that I DO know how there’s more out here about everything, than there is in there -earning multiple PhD’s -about anything. Not just flora, fauna, fishing or forestry; birds, bees, butterflies or buttercups. People, lingual to anthropological. History, natural to political. Science, social to biological to all that’s logical. Geography, subterranean to topographical to a farmland’s vegetable or mineral. (Even “the very model of a modern major general”!) First a little money is needed. Second and more important is a bit more time off from earning that money. Ideally being either retired (and willing to rough it) or independently wealthy. For most, two weeks to two months is all the time off work we can afford. The best way is to telecommute, or be part of a pyramidal bonsai money- making mechanism. Then there is the job hiatus or year- long sabbatical. And for some really slow travelers, a job overseas for a few years at a time can be the absolute best way to go about it. Whatever it takes to afford all that would be needed for Life Transformation in motion… Time. I remember one of my favorite quotes by John Ruskin, “All travel becomes dull in exact proportion to its rapidity”. And we all know how traveling is greater than arriving.
Being completely self- contained and self- sufficient means perpetual travel is possible. The love of autonomy is both the incentive and the reward. Yet to learn in this fashion requires a sort of “forced denial”. And that is the required simplicity and minimalism of only using what is absolutely necessary. I am reminded of Thoreau bending down to the riverside to scoop water up from his cup, whilst nearby, one of the more native inhabitants of America bends down to quench his thirst with his own hands. Thoreau looked at his cup in disgust and tosses it away. This not only applies to travel objects one carries, but also the means in which one is carried. And that is to perpetuate movement with the least mechanical assistance possible. Speed reduction forces absorption of Real Life. Hiking is better than kayaking is better than bicycling is better than motorcycling is better than 4X4 is better than car…van…and…well, and RV has almost gone too far. That is beginning to move from minimalism to “maximalism”. And a prepackaged tour- guide tour is completely out of the self- sufficient loop. It is based upon a reliance on others. That is psuedo-travel in my travel book. My ultimate favorite way to tour, aside from the motorcycle, is the bicycle. It is the slowness of pace which depicts the closeness and detail. I can recall a million flattened maws or detached paws or frozen, gaping jaws. The vivid memory of detail is due to it taking multiple strokes of infinity to pedal on by. And as it is with seeing “more” of the flattened fauna, one also sees more detail of the houses and plants and towns and people and things. The speedier motorcycle tour affords less absorption, but in many ways equal to experience. What I love about two- wheeled travel is that it’s roofless. There is a greater sense of motion from the open panorama of scenery not visually obstructed. There is also the physical sense of actively perpetuating one’s own motion. Balancing and leaning a certain way both influences as well as conforms to motion's wonderful process. (There are ways that a motorcyclist needs no sexual partner travel accompaniment.) Sometimes it is not so much the travel mechanism but the travel medium that makes all the difference. Generally, dirt roads are better than two- lane black-top. Which in turn is better than four- lane interstate. And the lonelier the road the better. I embrace the process of slowness and challenge in a 4X4’s traction, articulating every snag and cranny of Utah's slickrock. Whereas I expel the idea of its exact opposite: a car comfortably hugging the interstate, within the a/c- enclosed comforts and constant drone of indecipherable homogenous mush. Soulless. There is no better way to the comatose than this, even better to me than the oral sleep- aid lure. It is the WHOLE difference, whether in Motion or in Life (which to me IS life). The active mode experience versus the passive mode. To me, no greater diametric antipode exists, other than the herculean starkness between physical life and death itself. Somewhere above and beyond my travel spectrum is a hang-gliding tour, perhaps a little geographically limited. Or an ultra-light tour which would be incredible. Or perhaps some other form of piloted- aircraft tour. Or better yet a balloon around the world (in more than eighty days). Or the best possible treatise of self- sufficiency I know: the one who sails around the world. From Time Off until Time Is Up, travel time never hangs heavy without the burdening bane of speed. For some, stationary mode is necessary. The call of normalcy is not forward motion, but moving forward at other things. A more creative work is sometimes needed, as opposed to mere learning and experience. For others, it’s a preference to home-cooked meals. Or beloved relatives or fat cats. But whether home maintenance or comfort maintenance, I see it as a little too much maintenance. There is not much more in my experience of melancholia than to return to the speed of stationary life. Call it a twisted obsession to either flee reality or face it squarely. Call it anything but Time To Go Home.
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Here's the view as we settle down to watch the sunset at Astor Park A 2010 Beatlick Travel Report: Survival Camp We hit the road for Fort Stockton and our good friend Neil Astor's house last week. We will be moving onto his forty acres in Study Butte as soon as this polar front moves out of town. We got to go see the property on Sunday and it is pretty spectacular in its starkness. Windswept, open land amidst the Chisos Mountain range and many more I don't know by name yet. The sunsets are absolutely spectacular. The goal is to go in and survive for six weeks off the grid. It's an experiment just to test our mettle and save a few bucks. Imagine, if you got off work one day and someone told you you can't go home. Imagine everything you knew and understood was taken from you - electricity, gas, water. What would you do? Well we're about to find out. I was comforted to know that Neil's brother is already living on the property. He works in a mine 30 miles away and has a campsite with a travel trailer. I think I would be a little more intimidated if he weren't there. At least he knows the ropes. Once I get my van in there, if I get my van in there, for there is one really step hill and more than a few intimidating ravines to cross, then it will stay parked till we come out. One time in, one time out, is the plan. The store three miles away has wi-fi so we can stay in touch but the prices on food are prohibitive. The best grocery store is five miles away, but hopefully Neil's brother Henry will give us a ride from time to time. Now on this imaginary doomsday scenario that I am modeling after I do have a few obvious advantages. I have the luxury of preparing and tomorrow, the 13th of Jan., we will be stocking up on dry goods. I have a shopping list and more survival tips coming to the third page of my website. It's not up yet but will be soon. I'm having fun thinking about what to buy and how to make it all last. The basics are coffee, oatmeal, powdered milk, pinto beans, rice, trail mix, crackers, raisins, boullion, brown suger, and peanut butter all in bulk. So much for the low-carb diet that helped me lose 40 pounds. But I guess if the store is five miles away that might prove itself to not be a problem
Part 2/Survival Camp, Astor Park Shooting stars by night and a double rainbow in the morning provided entertainment in the vast skies of Study Butte. We spent our first night at Neil’s forty acres in order to help out as he put the finishing touches on the framework of the first permanent structure on his property. The land tracts in this area run 200 acres to 500 acres and more so neighbors are few. Looking around 360 degrees of the uninterrupted landscape that Neil calls “prehistoric” one can imagine a dinosaur loping across the desert floor. The nearby Chisos Mountains stand shoulder to shoulder with multiple other ranges I can't name yet. The reference points off on the far horizon have names like Mule Ear Peaks and Emory Peak. It is timeless out here and the desert stretches out in front of us as vast as an ocean. By the light of a half moon Neil, his brother Henry, Beatlick Joe and I lugged chairs, coolers and a steam pot to an arroyo protected from the furious winds that have blown all day, uncharacteristically from the south. In the moonlight walking through the towering gullies I felt like I was in a dream state or a movie. We looked like characters from “Beach Blanket Bingo” heading off to the beach to steam up a dozen lobsters, but we were in Far Out West Texas steaming up a dozen tamales instead with no water in sight. The arroyo was over ten feet high on one side with a concave mud wall completely sheltering us from the wind. Neil started a fire that reflected off the hard mud and illuminated us as if we were on stage. Our looming shadows accompany us in the background as the clarity of the night sky over head afforded us the opportunity to see things up there like multiple shooting stars and one strong light of such an unnatural trajectory that I am not even going to try to fathom what I saw. I’m not one to lend myself to fantasy and space aliens but I saw lights and movement out there I can’t rationally explain. As we nestled against our mud backdrop we took turns singing campfire songs and telling ghost stories. Neil officially named his residence Astor Park that night. We laughed and teased each other with such camaraderie and affection that I became quite overwhelmed with my emotions and the beauty of this stark existence. I thought to myself this is the start of something. I feel it in my bones. This is what people pay hundreds if not thousands of dollars to do, come out here to have this sort of experience. They take photographs which they will keep for a lifetime, haul out of some drawer occasionally and reminisce about till their dying day. I felt something permanent lodge up inside my own heart that night. This is something I can hang on to, be a part of, and I intend to. Neil’s generosity is magnanimous. With all the beer drinking and belly laughing I had a case of hiccups by the time we headed back to camp. We made a bed in the back of Neil’s pickup and tied a blue tarp over head. Good thing as it started raining before daylight. We had to get up and put tarps over the building supplies of plywood and concrete that we brought out from Fort Stockton. We crawled back into bed and waited for daylight. In the morning the wind had died down and there was a breathtaking double rainbow arcing over newly declared Astor Park. After it faded I memorized the landscape. Each acre hosts a yucca plant growing out of the desert floor of Bentonite. That is the main ingredient in Kitty Litter, a substance that clots up with moisture and can make Astor Park a vast expanse of impenetrable wet concrete if there is a hard rain. About every ten feet grows a spindly ocotillo shrub shooting up thorned branches towards the sun like so many bony fingers; every eight feet squats a mesquite bush. These are intermixed with juniper bushes, barrel cactus and clumps of various other cacti species. It’s not hospitable, but it is beautiful. Reluctantly we had to go back to Fort Stanton with Neil. We want to be here so badly but I have to deal with some emergency dental surgery. I’m on ten days of antibiotics for my abscessed tooth which sprang up out of nowhere and has completely halted my plans until it is dealt with. It requires a dental surgeon, I can’t just go to a dentist Dr. Yarborough told me in Fort Stockton. I will have to retrace my steps all the way back to El Paso if I can’t find an endodontist closer to Pecos County.
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Part 3/Survival Camp, Astor Park Wow back in the sixties we called it a "rumble" when two gangs got together to taunt each other and fight. The coyotes were out SOOOOO early, just an hour or so after dark, having heard all the construction noise all day. Usually they start up about dawn. But this night, after Neil and the kids hammered all day long, rode bikes all over, screamed and hollered all over, the coyotes sound like they are lined up all along the property line, yipping, hooting, and making some real noise. The teenage boys just hoot and yip back, taunting, and Scruffy the dog is absolutely magnitized, quivering, every dusty long hair perched on end as she listens to her distant relatives out there in the dark. "They want Scruffy," Neil claims. I think the coyotes are complaining about the population explosion at Astor Park. Now tomorrow, hands on hips, we will all stare out at the ATV squads that howl past Neil's property and be resentful of their intrusion. This is a private road off of Gate Two and Neil and Henry can't understand why the desert sports centers can send in their clients on ATVs to run all over this property out here. Not Neil's property specificly, but the whole private road. As I said earlier this is Spring Break week and the place is hoppin'. So after the semi-showdown with the coyotes Neil and the boys gathered around our campfire and we had quite a few laughs with the youngsters. It was warm and we even went to bed with one of two of the screens on our plush new hemp canvas top unzipped and open to the night skies. Come about midnight the wind kicked up so awfully that we had to get out of bed and take down the tarp. I worry that the tent pole will get bent again. So we had to get out of bed and fight the wind to take down an 8x12 tarp in 60 mph winds. We climbed back up into the bed but worried that the canvas was getting hit too hard so then we took everything down, locked down the top, and then rearranged everything downstairs so we could make the bed. I did sleep a lot better not worrying about all the equipment. Then it got SOOOO cold. The big wind from the North, the same one that left some snow in Albuquerque, hit us.
Clouds, dark mean looking clouds, covered the skies in just an hour it seemed and I stayed inside the van all day and night. But I can do that very contentedly. Neil and the kids left Saturday afternoon and the coyotes have been quiet ever since. Today we walked into the RV park, Henry will give us a ride home. My hands hurt, there are chunks of skin off of my knuckles. cactus needle pokes, thorn scratches. I try to rub down in Vaseline every night, it's the only thing that seems to penetrate in the dryness, but my skin is taking a toll here. I have a beautiful big broad-rimmed hat that Neil has loaned me. It looks like something out of a Gene Autry movie. I love it. Part 4/Survival Camp, Astor Park Nine fifteen AM!! on a Texas Tuesday morning and two coyotes walked right into our campground! I couldn't believe it. All platinum furred, one hiked up a leg and marked the big hole where we empty "the bucket" every day while a second ambled along on the other side of the arroyo. Unbelievable. I got to catch up with my mentor for minimalist camping out here, Colleen. I spoke of her earlier. We discussed living in small places and she is exactly right when she says you have to perpetually organize. That is the most frustrating thing for me. There must be all told at least six hundred different items in this van and they all stay in a constant state of flux. Nothing is ever where I think it is when I go to look for it and I get soooo frustrated. These are the moments I know that ruin Joe's experience when I am fussing and complaining because I can't find something. And it seems impossible to have a place for everything and everything in its place because the circumstances change. If the weather is right I cook outside, if not I cook inside. If I cook inside everything I need is outside and vise versa. If we sleep up top because the wind is calm I have to bring everything up because it was all taken down when the wind got wild. Up down, in out. I have been looking for my fingernail scrubbing brush for three days. It was in the same place for MONTHS and now I can't find it. I guess we are gonna leave a little early. We hope to get the newsletter out and working out some details about our curriculum for the Peace Camp we are working on this summer. We have limited facilites to get anything accomplished here so we have decided to head out. I talk about the Orthodox Church I enjoy so much in Las Cruces. They have a special service on April 4 and we want to be there for that. Three hours of chanting beginning at a10pm with a big party early in the morning, with a party afterwards at one am. It's called a Pascha I think. We really enjoy these ceremonies with Michael our friend and mechanic, so I am happy to know we will be in town to share that moment with him. We'll be heading up to Albuquerque soon for three weeks. I am looking forward to some running hot water and PBS and NPR. I really miss NPR. We have a MP3 player that we keep loaded with educational tapes of literary lectures. Other than that our only entertainment is some VERY sporadic AM radio and the only Terlingua radio broadcast, which is on a loop and only changes out once a week it seems. As for other coping skills: When I empty out the water from the ice box with a poultry baster I empty it into a bucket, then transfer that cold water to the solar shower. Next day it sits in the sun and heats up and we use that to wash dishes or ourselves. The canned food has worked out fairly well. This morning for breakfast we had bacon we cooked on the firepit with two cans of corn. We had bean burritos, bean burgers, mashed beans, fried beans, rice with vegetables, Ramen noodles with zuchini, tomato and bacon sandwiches, and lots of cookies, shame on me. Despite all the long walks in the heat I can't say I feel any lighter.
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Our VW bus parked at Organ Pipe National Monument in Arizona ----------------------------------------------- Part 5/Back in Marfa, TX We left the desert of Study Butte just as it was beginning to bloom. Truly the earth is so forgiving, like an indulgent mother, and the intensity of color in those delicate little flower petals surely is attributed to how much they must struggle to exist. So I guess our own struggles must makes us better people as well. We had a real struggle accomplishing much of our work for the website and newsletter so we decided to leave a little early and get all that work accomplished. The newsletter hard copies will be late this issue due to a lack of print shops out in these remote locations, but Beatlick News is currently updated online at www.beatlick.com. Now we are in Marfa, Texas. This is such a special little town and we continue to make contacts here. I want to emphasize again I don’t think we would be having the social experiences we do have if we were in an RV or truck camper. It is our VW bus that attracts others to us. Already we have a VW friend here, Pat Rogers, a mechanic. He moved his shop from Dallas to Marfa and works for a wealthy investor who has set up a car museum in Marfa and Pat runs it and maintains the cars. There is always an international flavor here and the first night in town we were going to an art opening at Ballroom Marfa featuring Mexican artists. The Chinati Foundation, the Judd Foundation, and numerous other enterprises that this town is revolving around bring in artists from around the world. This night as we left the building a Hispanic and another Spanish artist were standing outside. For some reason we they saw us wanted to take a picture with us. They thought we looked like Willie Nelson and Dolly Parton. Ouch! I want to mention the most dramatic person I met at the “In Lieu of Unity” exhibition - political artist Teresa Margolles. Her artistic milieu is the morgue and dissecting room. She has a degree in Forensic Medicine and Science of Communication from the Universidad Nacional in Mexico. She calls herself a forensic artist and uses this imagery to renounce violence in Mexico, not only that which has been attributed to the drug cartels but the individual murders of so many women in Juarez. Her work is shown all over the world. The project for the Marfa exhibition was a movie showing a street cleaning truck spraying water on a highway, mile after mile. That is all. But what was represented so subtly was astounding. Over the course of a month Teresa presented a fake press card to gain access to the murder scenes in Juarez. There she took pieces of clothing and used them to sop up blood from the streets where so many are being murdered. Then she dried all of these articles of clothing in the hot Mexican sun. Next she took all those clothes across the border and rehydrated them and mixed that water with the 5,000 gallons of water in the truck. This is what was sprayed onto Highway 90 in Presidio County of Texas. She waited for a really hot day so the water being sprayed out of the truck would hiss on the street to symbolize the screams of the murder victims. Teresa said she wanted to accomplish this because 90 percent of the weapons that are being used in so many murders in Mexico come from the U.S. and this was an appropriate way to distribute the blood shed because of those weapons. I asked her is she was afraid of retribution by drug cartels accused of many of these murders. "Fear is a fact of life in Juarez." This is the quality of artist found in this tiny little Texas town. You can still expect to see locals riding horses down the middle of the street. So many people we have met told us they don’t bother to lock their doors. I didn’t see a single bicycle, which are prolific here, locked or chained. They are simply leaned against the buildings. The Hotel Paisano, where we park, is so hospitable and laid back. We go in there every day to use the wi-fi all day long. We use the bathrooms and help ourselves to the big fruit basket and coffee without ever being confronted or asked if we are guests of the establishment. We were taking a walk down the road on Sunday and a man stepped out of his tiny little barber shop and just started a conversation with us. I guess Beatlick Joe and I are some kind of sight. His name was Abe Gonzales and he is the former sheriff and county judge here. We spent over an hour talking with him in his shop as he recounted his life as a boxer, track star, border agent and law enforcer. Today he enjoys taking care of his beautiful young granddaughters and resists the efforts locals make to lure him back as sheriff. There are some real issues here about the sheriff’s office and the jail house which has been closed down. But I’m not informed enough to go into that. Even Abe, in that short time we spent together, wanted to offer us the hospitality of his property for the van, just as Pat has. But for now we are happy across the street from the Paisano. I can get five bars on the wi-fi reception even in the van. We will be here one more day and take the slow ride back to Las Cruces. Mid April we will be house sitting in Albuquerque and Placitas again. Looking forward to the hot water and electricity. Find out more about Teresa Margolles: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtLcedTTIBc http://www.frieze.com/issue/review/teresa_margolles http://www.culturebase.net/artist.php?1013
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Marfa Lights The mysterious Marfa lights. I saw ‘em. We teamed up with a fellow tourist named “Sparks” at the film expo the other night, he is staying at the Paisano Hotel with some other friends all from northern New Mexico, and they invited us to ride out to see the lights. They also invited us up to shower as well, which I found extraordinarily kind. But first we all packed into Gary and Pat’s Lexus and took the nine mile ride out to the viewing stand. I never expected to see anything, but we no sooner got there when we definitely saw some lights off in the distance. They are so far off on the horizon that you really have to look hard. But we saw small lights flicker, move about randomly, come and go. It’s not a big show, but they were definitely there. We spent all our time trying to rationalize what we were seeing. The lights flickered and faded, advanced and retreated to a degree. It isn’t so amazing now, but I wonder what someone would think of all that back in the 1880s when they were first reported. It’s not like there would have been electric lines run out there back in the old days. We speculated that the one red light might have been something on a railroad track; we saw that off to our left for a mile or so as we drove back into Marfa. I didn’t go out to explore but anyone will tell you that there are no highways out there or homes. The line of lights was sometimes broken into twos and threes and they all did seem to rise, fall, sway and slightly vary in colors as we watched them. I can say that the distance from the lights on the left all the way to the lights on the right had to be a range of four or five miles at least, probably farther. At times they would flicker out to just one then reoccur. The most I saw at one time along with the one constant red light was about eight. There was one strong light to the left of the red light then a group of three lights which seemed to sway together, a couple of other sets of two lights each, which again seemed to move in tandem. I can’t explain it all I can say is I saw it. Happy Trails Beatlick Pamela
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